Joined: Mar 28, 2009 Posts: 33 Location: Snohomish WA
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 9:25 am Post subject:
Looking good! I ended up switching to micro fiber for fillets. They seem to be easier to sand, don't know if they're any stronger. _________________ NAR #77966 L2
Washington Aerospace Club - NAR Section 578
Looking good! I ended up switching to micro fiber for fillets. They seem to be easier to sand, don't know if they're any stronger.
Microballoons are actually one of the easiest to sand fillers there is; my guess is my epoxy just hadn't hit the 100% cure point, yet. I'll sand more after work today, and find out.
Fibers are typically stronger, at least any fibers I've used.
Joined: Mar 28, 2009 Posts: 33 Location: Snohomish WA
Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 8:17 pm Post subject:
I guess you should have parked your "oven" in a sunnier location? When I was building the Barbie rocket, I would i make two fillets in the evening and then put it in the van in the morning and take it to work with me and let them cook all day in the parking lot while I was at work. Two fillets at a time, on the last set I just left it in the van till the weekend. Lucky for me it stayed sunny all week, now I'm driving a microwave (small pickup), don't know how I'm gonna do the next one.
I was using 2 hour epoxy, so I wanted to be sure it was cured. _________________ NAR #77966 L2
Washington Aerospace Club - NAR Section 578
When you leave stuff in for an extended period of time, do you have issues with fumes?
I've found that if I put a lot of epoxy in (nose cone molds) and cure them for a couple hours on a really hot day, the fumes are really nasty in the Explorer for the next 24 hours, unless I thoroughly air it out.
Joined: Mar 28, 2009 Posts: 33 Location: Snohomish WA
Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 9:53 pm Post subject:
troj wrote:
When you leave stuff in for an extended period of time, do you have issues with fumes?
I've found that if I put a lot of epoxy in (nose cone molds) and cure them for a couple hours on a really hot day, the fumes are really nasty in the Explorer for the next 24 hours, unless I thoroughly air it out.
-Kevin
Yep it was kinda stinky in there, you could still smell it a couple days later. _________________ NAR #77966 L2
Washington Aerospace Club - NAR Section 578
With a new Dremel in hand, rough shaping of all the fillets took less than 5 minutes. A Dremel, sanding drum and flex shaft is a god-send on this stuff!
Right now, I'm working on them with a 1" dowel wrapped in 120 grit sandpaper, following by hand-sanding for the last bit. I'm roughly half done; after I get them all sanded, I'll take some pictures.
Then, it'll be time to grab some primer and see how things look with PAINT!
The fillets are Fibreglast System 2000 epoxy with microballoons, to a consistency that just barely pours. I then sanded them to a rough shape using a sanding drum on my (new!) Dremel. Final sanding was then done with 120 grit sandpaper wrapped around a 1" dowel, followed by touch-up work with 120 grit by hand.
They're not perfect; I know there are some spots that need more fill work and touch-up sanding. But, it's hard to spot all of it, so first, it's time to hit things with some primer, and see where we're at!
I found Rustoleum Painter's Touch Ultra-Cover sandable primer on sale for $2.99/can. I got lucky on the timing, as they were changing out the price tags at the time I was grabbing cans, so I nabbed four of 'em!
The reason for the primer, at this point, is to highlight imperfections that require either additional sanding, or additional filling.
What really surprised and pleased me is just how well the transition came out -- I expected there to be some need for quite a bit of fill work on this, but the epoxy I soaked it with really did a nice job of filling everything. There are a few small spots near the bottom that need a bit of filling, but overall, I'm very pleased with it!
You can see a closeup of the spots that need filling in this next photo.
For what started out as 5 pieces of basswood, I'm really pleased with how little work this part is going to take.
Joined: Jul 01, 2007 Posts: 543 Location: Fullerton, CA
Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 12:37 am Post subject:
Looks good!
Not sure what or how much you know about automotive body repair, but after the first primer, I often see the use of a contrasting "witness" coat, every so lightly sprayed on the surface, and then hit with a sanding block to help identify the low spots on the mono-chromatic surface. I've done this once or twice, and usually a flat black on white primer is easiest. Plus, since you have everything sealed with primer, fiberglass and epoxy, wet-sanding is a good way to not only keep the dust down, but also to lubricate the paper and the body, which helps keep your paper from clogging - a common issue with sanding primer. _________________ RD
Joined: Mar 28, 2009 Posts: 33 Location: Snohomish WA
Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 12:40 am Post subject:
Looking good! I really need to get busy, can't have you being the only person posting project pictures! _________________ NAR #77966 L2
Washington Aerospace Club - NAR Section 578
Not sure what or how much you know about automotive body repair
Not a bloody thing.
Quote:
, but after the first primer, I often see the use of a contrasting "witness" coat, every so lightly sprayed on the surface, and then hit with a sanding block to help identify the low spots on the mono-chromatic surface.
That's a good idea, and would be easy to do -- a rust colored sandable primer would be just the ticket for that!
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